オクトーバーフェストのビールは何色?──「メルツェンだと思っていた」私たちが現地で知った、黄金色になったワケとメルツェンの底力

What color is Oktoberfest beer? ──How we discovered the reason for its golden color and the true power of Märzen, having previously thought it was Märzen.

What color is Oktoberfest beer? The reason behind its golden hue and the true potential of Märzen, as discovered by those of us who 'thought it was Märzen' when we visited.

◯ Until we went to Munich, we also assumed it was "Märzen."

I must confess. Until I visited Munich in September 2025, I, too, assumed that "Oktoberfest beer = that amber Märzen."

However, the beer actually served there was not amber, but a clear, pale golden color. My honest first impression was, "Wait, isn't this Märzen?"

In fact, behind this "misconception" lies over 200 years of Oktoberfest history. Today, I'd like to gently unravel this mystery, along with what I experienced firsthand (and couldn't finish drinking) there.

 

Visiting the tents, I realized "even the same golden color can be completely different."

After visiting several tents at the venue, I made an interesting discovery. Even though it was the same golden Festbier, the drinking experience varied surprisingly depending on the brewer. What stood out most were two starkly contrasting beers.

 

《Augustiner's wooden barrel was exceptional》

One was Augustiner's Festbier. It was simply too delicious.

It had a clear golden color, and with one sip, the richness of the malt spread gently, yet it was surprisingly light. The beer went down smoothly. In fact, Augustiner is the only brewery among the six at the venue that still meticulously pours beer from wooden barrels. It is often praised by locals in Munich as "the best at Wiesn" (a nickname for Oktoberfest). The quality of its craftsmanship is evident in that "light yet delicious" taste. While not widely known in Japan, its reputation locally is quite special. We talked about this wooden barrel Festbier in thevisit report here, and Augustiner's brewing philosophy inthis one.

 

《I couldn't finish a liter of Paulaner》

The other was Paulaner's Festbier. To be honest, I couldn't finish the entire liter (laughs).

Oktoberfest beer is served in gigantic one-liter steins called "Mass," and half-liter sizes are almost nonexistent. When filled to the brim, it weighs about 2.3 kg. After several drinks, this one certainly hit me. Perhaps it was also because the Augustiner I had just before was so incredibly delicious (laughs). It was a day that made me truly realize how much even golden Festbiers can differ.

By the way, one Mass costs about 15 euros (approximately 2,400 yen) in 2024. What's surprising is that water at the venue is almost as expensive. Yet, in 2024, approximately 6.7 million people attended, and about 7 million Masses were emptied, proving that the scale of the original festival is truly extraordinary.


◯ What exactly is "Festbier" anyway?

Let's clarify the identity of that golden beer we drank there.

The beer served at Oktoberfest is a special "Festbier" that can only be enjoyed at that time and place. Roughly speaking, it's a beer that is a bit richer and higher in alcohol than aHelles. It has a clear golden color and a clean, light mouthfeel. Yet, its alcohol content is about 6%, which is higher than typical German beers (around 5%). The color is distinctly a clear gold, which is a clear difference from the reddish amber Märzen.

 

🍻 Looks like a Helles, but is surprisingly strong.

This "light yet strong" quality is quite deceptive.

With a rich malt flavor and a pleasant mouthfeel, it's even called "liquid bread" in Germany. You can drink it down easily. But it's one liter of about 6% alcohol. If you drink it without thinking, it gradually takes its toll. While the Germans next to me coolly ordered multiple refills, I gave up. I certainly received the baptism of the authentic experience.


◯ The star of the past was the amber "Märzen."

Now, back to the "misconception" I mentioned at the beginning. Our imagining an amber Märzen was not entirely off the mark.The star of Oktoberfest in the past was indeed the amber Märzen.

Märzen (German for "March") beer is not a pale golden color, but rather a reddish amber, a full-bodied beer with a rich malt aroma and flavor. For over 100 years, it was the face of the festival.

 

《Why "March" beer? — The seasonal wisdom hidden in its name》

So why "March"? There's a rather nice story behind it.

In old Bavaria, brewing beer during the hot summer months was forbidden. In an era without refrigeration, brewing in the heat was prone to spoilage, and there was also a risk of fire.

So, people would brew a large batch of beer in March, when it was still cool, and store it in caves with ice to last through the summer. To endure the long summer, they would brew it stronger and with a richer malt profile. Then, in the fall, before the new brewing season began, they would finish off the remaining stock – and this "drinking-up feast" happened to coincide with Oktoberfest.

This practice of "brewing it stronger for preservation" is actually linked to why today's Festbier is around 6% alcohol. Even if the color has lightened, the "gene for strength" has certainly been passed down. The relationship between seasons and brewing is also touched upon in theBeer Purity Law column.


◯ So why did it change to golden?

The amber Märzen was loved for over 100 years. There are two main reasons why it was replaced by today's golden color.

 

💡 Refrigeration technology made "March brewing" a thing of the past.

One reason is the advent of refrigeration technology. In the 1870s, refrigerators were introduced to Munich breweries, allowing beer to be brewed at low temperatures year-round. The practice of "brewing in March to last through the summer" became technologically unnecessary. The richer Märzen was a "necessity for long-term storage," and that necessity simply vanished.

💡 "Easy-to-drink lightness" and the complete switch in the 1990s

Another factor was the shift in people's preferences. As time went on, Germans began to favor lighter, paler, and easier-to-drink beers. At a festival where people drink liters of beer, "drinkability" became even more important.

Paulaner led this trend, introducing a light, golden Festbier, which other breweries eventually followed. By the 1990s, all six breweries had switched to golden Festbiers. The reason we were surprised by the "golden color" at the venue was that it represented the latest iteration of this over 100-year evolution.


◯ But "Märzen" hasn't lost out.

Here, I want to emphasize something.Märzen has not become outdated and disappeared at all.

🌏 Globally, amber is still the face of Oktoberfest.

Interestingly, even after Germany switched to golden beer, the image of "Oktoberfest = amber Märzen" remained strong in the rest of the world, especially in America. Even today, breweries worldwide proudly brew amber Märzen as "Oktoberfest beer" every autumn.

Yes, the reason we imagined an amber color was probably because this "global image of Märzen" was ingrained in us. Märzen has broken free from its German origins and is now a global autumn staple. When you think about it that way, it's a rather proud beer, isn't it?

 

🍺 Golden for easy drinking, or amber for a rich taste.

Ultimately, this is a matter of preference, not superiority. If you want to enjoy a large quantity lightly, go for a golden Festbier. If you want to savor each glass deeply, with a rich malty flavor, then an amber Märzen is for you. Perhaps the "heaviness" I felt at the venue was, in reverse, a lingering sense of satisfaction inherited from Märzen.


◯ Why Schmatz deliberately chooses "Märzen."

In fact, the Oktoberfest beer that we at Schmatz confidently recommend is this amberMärzen.

While the global trend leans towards golden beers, we deliberately choose the traditional Märzen. This is because we believe there is definite value in the deep malt richness that only this style can offer, and its substantial flavor that perfectly complements an autumn evening. The story of why Schmatz Lager is Märzen is detailed inthis lager (Märzen) column.

 

▶︎ Compare the two tastes at home.

Of course, for those who prefer a "light and easy-to-drink" experience, we also offerHelles, which is similar to the authentic golden Festbier. You can enjoy the "light yet delicious" world that captivated me at Augustiner with Helles.

How about comparing the two tastes born from 200 years of Oktoberfest history – the golden Festbier and the amber Märzen – in the comfort of your own home? Their distinct personalities will truly shine, making each glass infinitely more interesting.

🏠 For beer selections for comparison, please visitSchmatz's online shop or ourbeer list.

🍽️ If you're eager to toast in an atmosphere just like the original, be sure to visityour nearest Schmatz location.

By the way – why does Munich's "October Festival" begin in September? That mystery is solved inanother article. If you want to know the whole picture of Oktoberfest, please start withthis complete guide.

Prost! Cheers!

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