Waitresses carrying 10 steins, pros who pour beer non-stop, a factory-like kitchen – The People Who Support Oktoberfest
There was a sight in the tent that made me do a double-take.
A waitress, laden with a stack of steins held in both hands, weaved her way through the bustling crowd. I counted eight steins. Each filled to the brim with a liter of beer.
"I wonder how much that weighs..."
In the previous article, we delved into the "behind-the-scenes" of Oktoberfest – dissecting its organizers, booth permits, and the setup mechanism. But what truly captivated me on-site was not the mechanisms, but rather the "people." This time, I'd like to talk about the people on the front lines who support this enormous festival.
"Who runs this festival?" – The "people" are the main act.
A festival that draws 6.5 million people in 16 days. Each and every glass is ultimately delivered by real human beings.
Even if the tent is factory-sized, the moment beer is delivered to a customer ultimately depends on human hands. As Schmatz is also in the restaurant business, this detail really caught my attention.
The more I watched them, the more their work transcended "amazing" and reached an almost unbelievable level.
7 steins, 8 steins, 14 steins – The superhuman skill of carrying steins
7 steins is standard, 8 for skilled waitresses
When I spoke to a local waitress, she told me the standard is "6 steins plus 1 on top," for a total of 7 steins. They use a unique carrying method, gripping the handles tightly in the center and cradling the stack with both hands.
Skilled waitresses can carry 8 steins. This weighs approximately 18.5 kilograms. Since a one-liter stein, when full, weighs about 2.3 kilograms including its contents, it's equivalent to carrying more than three 5-kilogram bags of rice.
"I can carry more, but I don't overdo it when it's crowded," one experienced waitress reportedly said with a laugh. Safety first, as they say.
The record is over 14 steins, Guinness is 19 steins
However, there are those who achieve even more. Media reports have highlighted extraordinary individuals who carry 14 steins (approximately 32 kg) at once. Some even claim a personal record of 16 steins.
And the Guinness World Record is an astounding 19 steins. This record was achieved in 2008, and the weight amounts to approximately 45 kilograms.
Carrying 45 kilograms of beer. That's already in the realm of athletes, isn't it? Behind those glamorous dirndls lies such a physically demanding challenge.
Zero hourly wage? Waitresses are "self-employed"
A working style of "buying and selling" beer
This was the most surprising part.
Most waitresses at Oktoberfest are not "hourly workers" employed by the tent. Their position is that of a self-employed person (selbstständig). They purchase beer from the tent at a "wholesale price" and sell it to customers at the menu price, with their income being the difference plus tips.
In other words, the more they carry and sell, the more they earn. There was a clear economic reason behind that incredible speed of carrying.
5,000-16,000 Euros per season, but 12 hours x 16 days
According to local media and Bavarian tourism information, typical earnings for the entire season range from 5,000 to 16,000 Euros. In Japanese Yen, that's roughly 800,000 to 2,500,000 yen.
However, this is heavily influenced by the weather and the assigned area. If it rains continuously, customer traffic slows down, and there's a difference depending on whether they are assigned to popular box seats or the beer garden. Furthermore, they work a continuous maximum of 12 hours a day for 16 days. It's by no means an easy way to earn money.
It's a legitimate professional job behind the glamour. Thinking about that, my "Danke (thank you)" when ordering a beer there naturally came out with more force.
The "Pros" Who Keep Pouring Beer
Not just anyone can pour Augustiner from a wooden barrel.
If there are people carrying, there are also people pouring.
As mentioned in my previous visit report, Augustiner is the only brewery at Oktoberfest that serves beer exclusively from 200-liter wooden barrels (Hirschen). This has been a special tradition since 1987. While other breweries pour from stainless steel tanks, only Augustiner continues to pour from authentic wooden barrels.
And pouring from these wooden barrels is not something just anyone can do. Wooden barrels are different from gas-pressurized tanks, and the way the foam is created and the rhythm of pouring are not straightforward. It's a skill that only seasoned pourers can execute.
In fact, looking at job postings for the tents, "pourer" is advertised as a specialized position, with requirements such as "experience" and "the ability to accurately fill mass steins at a high frequency." Pouring itself is a fine craft.
"Even brewmasters want to pour" - What I heard locally
I heard an interesting story locally.
Apparently, "even the brewmasters (head brewers) of certain breweries want to work as pourers during Oktoberfest." The reason is simple: the pourers earn so much (laughs).
The top figures in beer making turn to pouring steins during the festival. While I can't fully confirm the veracity of this anecdote I heard on-site, doesn't it sound very much like Oktoberfest? It likely means that the job of "pouring" is a special position that combines both pride and practical gain.
A Factory-Like Kitchen – 3,000 Chickens a Day
500 sqm, 122 staff, 3 shifts
We've been talking about beer, but the kitchen that supports the food is also on a completely different scale.
According to an article that covered the kitchen of the largest tent, "Ochsenbraterei," it spans approximately 500 square meters, employs 122 people constantly during the season, and operates non-stop in three shifts. Simultaneously, 320 chickens are grilled.
It's no longer just a restaurant kitchen; it's closer to a food factory production line. The scale is completely different from the kitchens at our Schmatz restaurants (laughs).
430,000 chickens, 540,000 sausages in one summer
This single establishment serves 2,500 to 3,000 chickens (Hendl) per day. Across the entire venue, the sheer volume of consumption is even more unimaginable.
Official statistics from one year record that approximately 430,000 chickens, 540,000 grilled sausages, about 70,000 pork knuckles, and about 50,000 kilograms of fish were consumed in one summer.
Just looking at the numbers makes your stomach growl, doesn't it? To consistently serve such a huge quantity of hot food every day—the festival truly depends on the tireless efforts of the kitchen staff.
13,000 employees in a "temporary city"
8,000 permanent + 5,000 rotational
The people who carry, the people who pour, the people who prepare. How many people does that add up to?
According to official reports from the city of Munich, Oktoberfest creates approximately 13,000 jobs during the season. This includes about 8,000 permanent contracts and about 5,000 seasonal workers on rotation.
13,000 people for just 16 days. The "42-hectare temporary city" I mentioned last time is, indeed, run by human power. If you include the setup and dismantling, the number of people involved grows even further.
Behind every glass of beer are all these people. Knowing that, it feels like the taste changes a little.
Authentic Service, in Japan
Witnessing the people working in Munich firsthand, what struck me most was their passionate "omotenashi" (hospitality).
Carrying heavy steins with a smile, exchanging a few words with customers despite the busyness. I believe that atmosphere is what prevents Oktoberfest from being "just a beer festival."
At Schmatz, we also diligently uphold the authentic German style and spirit of service in our Japanese restaurants. Please come and experience an authentic pint and heartfelt hospitality at our stores.
If you prefer to "taste the authentic flavors at home before visiting a store," please visit our online shop. We offer a selection of beers that honor German brewing culture.
If you're interested in the background of German beer itself, also check out What is German Beer? It might change how you see a single pint.
