The Secret to Augustiner's "Light Yet Full-Bodied" Taste: Double Decoction and a Brand Philosophy That Values Everyday Life [Oktoberfest Visit Report ③]
The Day We Stepped into Augustiner's Beer Hall
Ever since I tasted that wooden barrel beer, the question "Why can I keep drinking this much?" has been stuck in my head.
As I wrote in my previous report, among the six major tents at Oktoberfest, Augustiner is the only one that serves beer directly from wooden barrels (Holzfass). They have been the only brewery to do so since 1987. That smooth mouthfeel, the sensation of the malt flavor gently spreading without the carbonation stinging the tongue—we wanted to find out the truth behind it. So, the very next day, our Schmatz team headed to their headquarters in Munich's Old Town.
For an overview of Oktoberfest, refer to this guide article.
To the Headquarters While the Tent Excitement Still Lingered
Augustiner Bräustuben is a stone beer hall near Frauenkirche. It had a calm atmosphere, quite different from the hubbub of the tent. Wooden tables, high ceilings, and local old men quietly drinking beer from midday. That's the kind of place it is.
When you order, the bartender pours beer from a wooden barrel behind the counter without using gas pressure. There’s no whooshing sound; the beer quietly flows into the glass by gravity. Augustiner proudly states on its official website that it "flows fresh and cool from the barrel, and only under the pressure of its own weight," meaning they use no external gas pressure whatsoever, relying solely on the weight of the barrel and gravity.
The Stone-Built Space and Beer Flowing Solely by Gravity
No added pressure means the beer contains less carbon dioxide than regular keg beer. With less stimulation to the tongue, the malt's umami flavor comes through directly. The "softness" I felt in the tent came from this.
By the way, there's a manual elevator at the bar counter of the Bräustuben. It's used to lower heavy wooden barrels of up to 100 liters from the upper floor. If they switched to tanks and gas pressure, they wouldn't need such a system or the manpower. But they don't stop because the "taste" of this beer depends on it.
"Why Can I Keep Drinking?"—With the Question from Last Time
No matter how many one-liter steins I drank, my body didn't feel heavy. Despite being 5.2% ABV, it didn't cling to my throat. I felt that the sensation I experienced at Oktoberfest couldn't be fully explained by just the wooden barrel serving method.
As I searched for the answer, I came across the term "double decoction" (Doppelmaischverfahren).
Double Decoction: Why Boil the Mash Twice?
Beer brewing begins with "mashing," where crushed malt is steeped in warm water to convert starch into sugar. Most modern breweries use the "infusion method," a simple process of gradually heating the mash during mashing, which is easy to control and low-cost.
Decoction is a completely different approach.
Take a portion of the mash, boil it, and return it. Repeat twice.
In the decoction method, a portion of the mash (mixture of malt and water) is removed to a separate kettle and boiled there. The boiling portion is then returned to the main mash, raising the overall temperature to the next stage. In double decoction, this process is repeated twice.
In terms of effort alone, it is quite inefficient. But there's a reason for this process.
Boiling physically breaks down the cell walls of the malt, increasing the efficiency of starch conversion into sugar. Furthermore, the amino acids and sugars in the malt react with the heat, creating complex aromas and flavors that are difficult to achieve with the infusion method. That "light yet profound" sensation comes from this.
Why Don't Modern Breweries Use It?
Decoction takes time. A process that takes a few hours with the infusion method can take almost twice as long with double decoction. It also consumes a lot of energy.
Many breweries worldwide decided to abandon decoction, judging that modern high-quality malt could produce delicious beer with the infusion method alone. Augustiner continues to use it.
They have the conviction that "the taste of this beer can only be achieved through this process." They have not changed the decision passed down through nearly 200 years of history. Taste over cost, philosophy over efficiency. That is Augustiner.
The Tennenmälzerei Still Remaining on the Brewery Grounds
There's still more to marvel at. Augustiner has its own malt house (Tennenmälzerei) on the brewery grounds. They germinate and dry barley themselves, producing their own malt in-house.
Most modern breweries purchase malt from specialized malting companies. This is equipment- and skill-free, consistent in quality, and cost-effective. Augustiner does not do that.
What is Floor Malting?—Why it wasn't mechanized
"Tennenmälzerei" refers to floor malting. It is a traditional method where barley is spread on the floor and manually raked regularly by craftsmen to ensure uniform germination. Compared to modern rotary malting equipment with climate control, it takes significantly more time and effort.
However, Augustiner believes that malt processed through this method acquires a unique flavor. Malting, decoction, and serving from wooden barrels are all choices to "do it ourselves, even though we could outsource it."
Helles: The "Aesthetic of Subtraction"
Augustiner's flagship beer, "Lagerbier Hell," is a prominent example of the Helles style. It is also the top-listed beer in the BJCP (Beer Judge Certification Program) as a "benchmark commercial example."
What ABV 5.2%, SRM 3-5, and IBU 16-22 Mean
With an alcohol content of 5.2%, a color of SRM 3-5 (pale golden), and a modest bitterness of IBU 16-22, the numbers alone might suggest a lack of distinctiveness.
But this represents a very difficult challenge in "adding nothing." Not too sweet, not too bitter, not too heavy, not too light. As pale and clear as possible in color, yet with a firm malt flavor. Helles is a style that aims to reconcile all these contradictory elements, and Augustiner continues to strive for its pinnacle.
"How light, how crisp, yet how full-bodied can it be?"
"Making the color pale" means minimizing the roasting of the malt. Pale malts tend to have less flavor. But roasting them darker would add color.
This is where double decoction comes in handy. Even with pale malt, two boiling steps can extract sufficient flavor and body. This is how the paradox of Helles—being clear in color yet full-bodied—is resolved. By suppressing carbonation with gravity pouring from wooden barrels, and allowing the malt flavor extracted through decoction to directly reach the tongue—the true nature of that sensation was found here.
There are various types of German beer, but few styles are as deceptively simple yet as difficult to brew as Helles. Explore the world of German beers through Schmatz's beer list.
A Brand Philosophy That Values Everyday Life
After leaving the beer hall, we researched Augustiner as a company.
Of the six major breweries in Munich, Augustiner is the only one that remains independent. The Edith Haberland Wagner Foundation, a charitable foundation, owns 51% of the shares, institutionally preventing it from going public or being acquired.
Why a Foundation Holds 51%—Reason for Not Going Public
A foundation holding the majority of shares means that the "independence of the brewery and preservation of tradition" can be prioritized over maximizing profits. It's a structure that allows them to refuse if shareholders pressure them to stop decoction.
Adhering to the Reinheitsgebot (German Beer Purity Law), continuing in-house malting, and serving from wooden barrels—all of these contribute to increased costs. However, under the foundation's umbrella, this is permissible. In fact, it's defined as Augustiner's very reason for existence.
Why Schmatz Staff Always Bring Back Augustiner as Souvenirs from Germany Trips
Actually, whenever Schmatz staff go on business trips to Germany, the souvenir they bring back is always Augustiner beer. Why? Because it's readily available at local supermarkets and gas stations, and it's always fresh and delicious, no matter where you drink it.
German gas stations even sell beer (which itself is surprising to Japanese people). The stock rotates quickly, so it's always fresh. If you ever stop by Munich, be sure to pick up a bottle. You can experience an authentic brew just like buying beer at a convenience store.
"The best everyday beer"—I believe that's the essence of Augustiner. It's not just about the special feeling of the festival; it's a brand that quietly accompanies the daily lives of Munich's people. Perhaps that's why it has lasted for 200 years.
Experience the World of Augustiner at Schmatz
Decoction brewing, floor malting, gravity pouring from wooden barrels, independent management by a foundation—the reasons why Augustiner's beer feels "exceptional" all stem from a series of choices that prioritize taste over efficiency.
Schmatz, too, selects its beers with the desire to deliver the true essence of German beer to Japan. You can read more about Schmatz's commitment here.
There are various types of German beer, and their depth expands the more you drink them. Start by experiencing that world at Schmatz.
Click here for Schmatz's online store →
In the next visit report, I'm going to change the subject a bit and talk about food. When you think of Oktoberfest, you think of sausages—but actually, there's more to it than that...
Stay tuned for the next column!
